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When I have seen this it is because of a bent storage latch tube. Disconnect the latch at one end and carefully lay it and the deck on the ground. if it seems to work correctly I would replace the latch tube.

If the controller is new (and presumably outputting 12VDC to the console). Then that would indicate a failure in the console. If you have a way to check DC power to the console you should have 12VDC measured between the red and black wires in the harness when the console is plugged in. If it drops to 6 VDC when the console is plugged in then the control board is bad and I would ask for a replacement if your retailer offered any kind of guarantee.

If you are having problems with alignment make sure you are leaving parts loose and not tightening any of the fasteners until you are instructed to do so in the assembly instructions. Good Luck.

the handrail is inches off. 2-3 inches too narrow to fit onto uprights.

@@cledr2485 This is usually because the uprights are too tight. You will need to go back and loosen the upright bolts and only tighten them when instructed to do so in the assembly instructions.

All the buttons on the console do is tell a motor to move a magnet closer or further away from the flywheel. If you haven't pressed the resistance increase button or the console says you are in a low resistance level then it is unlikely related to the console. I would look at the resistance mechanism in the machine itself.

Check out the Exploded drawing for your particular model. (It's found in the back of the users manual.) It should show you what serviceable components are available for your specific model. You can download a copy of your manual from www.iconservice.com if you no longer have the one that came with your equipment.

I don't but once the side shields are off its pretty intuitive. the problems people case are that the part (and the instructions) indicate that the spring housing should be rotated counter clockwise. It is actually the axle that should be rotated counter clockwise. When I have replaced them I have turned the spring housing clockwise (against the arrows printed on the part). It is the way that seems intuitive. If you do it they way that feels right and don't overthink it you will be good to go.

Parts are available at www.iconservice.com in the USA or from your local distributor in other countries.

I'm sorry, I do not but the process is essentially the same. The controller is still on the top side of the electronics bracket it just now has fewer wire connections.

Tensioning the belt to prevent slipping caused by a loose belt can be done using the idler roller bolts in the rear of that treadmill. Also note that on some models the drive belt may also be to loose causing slipping. So you may need to tighten the motor belt if tightening the walking belt does not improve slipping.

I'm sorry I don't have any information on that brand. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer.

"Loose" is relative. You do not want it so tight that it crushes or binds the arm so it can not move.

I think the easiest way is to use a socket wrench with a short extension.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Thanks in advance for that help. I am about to assemble one.

I do not know for sure if the bearings are universal but they have been the same in many of the bikes in have seen.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp thank you

It really is on an as needed basis. the underside of the belt/deck should feel oily but should not be wet and dripping with lubrication. the manufacturer lube is a high performance lube and does not need to be frequently applied but you should check often when you do your regular maintenance. some people apply it annually, need it or not. you are more likely to need to reapply lubrication if you keep your treadmill in a hot, dry or dust/dirty environment or if you go for long periods w/out use.

If the wires are intact and the console software is up to date then I think the most likely issue is a corruption in the controller. All of the motors and sensors go to this board before the information is communicated to the console. It is 1 part that explains failures in the speed sensor and the resistance and the incline. It's not likely you have 3 failures.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Something I have noticed when I checked the wires on the controller is that there appears to be a fair bit of white glue by the looks of things around the 3 red wires and going between them. Really not sure it is supposed to be like this looking as your other video on the controller replacement doesn't look the same. I have taken a photo of it so not sure if I can send this to you to have a look at?

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Thanks for the reply. Looking at the Icon website for my model (NTEVEX14718.1) am I correct in saying you think I need part number 402796?

@@FWS8072 some of the manufacturing facilities may have used hot melt glue to secure the wires. This will very by model and factory. It may require you to peal off the glue before replacing parts but it should not cause any issues with the bikes functionality.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Am I correct in saying that you think I need part number 402796 for my model?

Its helping realize mine bike belongs in garbage 😢god dam f$&@ rings. But good vid still. I have no patience anymore

If the motor extends and retracts when not connected to the machine. then it sems like there may be something physically keeping the unit from being able to move up and down.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp that was my first thought, I loosed all bolts a little bit, put some grease everywhere, and nothing happened 😞. Maybe something got screwed up on the board 🤔. I got this bike used and they told me that the resistances don’t work, checked the connections and saw that the resistance connector was put inverted, (colors of the cables), so I flipped and resistant stated working 😊. I noticed that the resistant moves too with the inclination , so maybe got crazy on the board for having those cables connected the wrong way ?

@@hugocontreras4067 Depending on the unit the wires to the resistance motor may be in a harness that reverses the yellow and blue wires and the red and black wires. This is done so they can use the Same motor in different applications. In any case this should not have any effect on the incline unless the resistance bracket is interfering with the frame when it tries to decline. I don't think it could cause a failure in the board. I think it is possible that the motor may have failed. Seems the board is working if the motor runs when not attached.

Side to side movement on the crank may be taken up with a small spacer (very thin washer). If the crank spacers in the elliptical have worn thinner you also may just need to replace those spacers.

To know for sure you can measure the output voltage from the controller to the console on the red and corresponding black wire in the upright harness. with the console plugged in you should have about 12VDC to the console on this wire. Some failed controllers will only deliver 6VDC when the console is connected. This may be enough voltage to get the console dans and brain board to operate. (The incline is controlled by the brain board.) The tablet however needs 12VDC to come on. It sounds like the controller isn't delivering enough power to the tablet display but you would need to measure it to know for sure. It's possible it is a fault in the tablet, but I think that is less likely.

If there is a failure in the buttons and it cannot be resolved with verifying the connections or freeing stuck buttons, then it is likely the part will need to be replaced.

Although this model does not have a track display it will give you your total distance in miles or kilometers on the screen. A typical track is 400 meters. 4 times around the track is aprox 1 mile. I hope that helps.

The sounds the treadmill will make will change with use/wear and tear, some of which is unavoidable. The best way to keep the treadmill quiet is regular maintenance, This including lubricating the walking belt and keeping it properly adjusted. This keeps less strain on the motor allowing it to run more quietly. Keeping all the other parts tight will prevent nocking noises and replacing worn out parts like the, walking belt, will keep the motor running efficiently.

Its not too bad. If you can move large pieces and are not intimidated by wiring under the hood then you can disconnect the upright wire from the lower board and and out of the belly pan. Then you can move the uprights and console as one assembly and the base and deck as a second part. You can also just reverse the assembly instructions. There is always the possibility of damaging the plastic covers and the plastic grommets that hold the wire harness in place can be difficult to extricate from the uprights. (they're not easy to remove from the outside and there is no access on the inside of the upright). Damaged parts are usually easily replaceable.

If you are missing parts then you can contact member care or the warranty holder in the area in which you live.

Loosen the bots at the bottom of the upright. They should be very loose during assembly. Then tighten them when instructed in the assembly instructions.

Thank you, this is correct. At the beginning of the video it does indicate that this method can be used to calibrate the resistance too a watts meter or other device also. There are many instances of users however that are just wanting to make adjustments for a variety of reasons, and rather than paying for a technician this video shows how those adjustments can be made by the user.

this sounds like the magnetic safety key is not on the console or the key switch in the console is faulty.

The bolts are on a spinning axle you may need to hold the fans and therefore the axle from spinning before they will come loose.

no matter what I do the axle spins

The manufacturer recommends Icon/iFIT performant lube. it is the only lubricant tested for these products. it should be available at www.iconservice.com or your local distributor of NordicTrack products if outside of the US.

I would look for additional screws. The two sides connect together and connect to the frame. Some of the screws that hold the 2 pieces together are only on one side which makes keeping track of where they are a little tricky.

Contact member care by reaching out to the number in your manual or my.ifit.com if you are in the US. If you are outside the US. contact your local member care office or your authorized distributor (where you purchased it). A replacement part can usually be sent out pretty easily.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp thank you so much

The best way to keep the console working is to perform regular updates as they become available. You may have to do several updates once you do a pinhole reset to get caught back up. If you are covered under warranty or a service plan the cost of parts should be covered if you have a manufacturer defect.

Sounds like you are pressing the iFIT sync button. "5620" is likely the Bluetooth pairing code for connecting to the iFIT app on your smart device. To enter a manual workout you just need to start rowing. If the workout is not starting you may need to adjust the reed switch.

Because of the weight of the console assembly I have had screws bind when trying to tighten them. I'm sorry you have wholes that do not line up. If there are problems with parts the warranty will cover the cost of repairs.

No, it will not get easier with use. the resistance is determined by the distance of the magnet around the flywheel. If you feel it is too hard you can adjust the length of the link arm to suit you. You can try to calibrate it if you have an external watts meter (used in cycling) to adjust the length of the arm so the watts on the console match the watts of your meter.

@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Thanks for the reply. So you think that when I adjusted the arm that attaches to the motor (which I am assuming is the link arm) I modified the resistance? Sorry but I am not an expert, but it seemed like the only way to make the holes match. Which way do I need to move it to make it lighter? Shorter or longer? How would I accomplish that and keep them aligned?

If you have this model then there is no kind of lock or mechanism to prevent it from turning. It is just a pressure fit. It will turn if you apply enough force to rotate it. It will loosen up with use so they usually ship them quite tight.